In May 2020, I spent a night in a rural village called YangChan Tulou (阳产土楼). I would describe the feelings I felt as a mix of Fago and Wanderlust.
Fago: an emotional concept that blurs compassion, sadness, and love.
Wanderlust: the pleasure of travel.
YangChan Tulou is a small mountain village located in Anhui province, 30 minutes outside of She County (Shexian). To get there, I had to take a bus from Shanghai to Anhui province, then arrange a car to take me to the mountain area where the village is located. Then, a shuttle had to take me up to the top of the mountain, where I traveled by foot to reach the destination. Needless to say, this place was REMOTE. Luckily, I was not alone. I was accompanied by a former lover, who made getting there much easier, considering she spoke the language and was adventurous.
Our time spent in the village was one of the most amazing travel experiences I’ve ever had. The scenery was breathtaking; the food was delicious; and the locals were friendly. I didn’t see many foreigners and there weren’t a large number of tourists visiting. My absolute favorite memory while there was stargazing whilst sitting outside at night. Since there was no artificial light to pollute the sky, every single star shone brightly in a way I was not used to seeing. I was truly breath-taken, and the experience made me grateful for life. It gave new meaning to Psalm 19:1-2.
“The heavens proclaim the glory of God. The skies display his craftsmanship. Day after day they continue to speak; night after night they make him known” (Psalm 19:1-2 NLT)
At the top of the hill is a school that has been closed for several years because there are no more students left in the community.
I thought about all the time I wasted worrying about things that didn’t have lasting meaning: career, money, ambition. In that moment, what truly mattered most was love, family, and the ability to perceive the good things around me. I was grateful for the perspective the trip gave me and the opportunity to revel in the simplicity of life.
My feeling of wanderlust was inspired by another reality: The village I was visiting was dying. Since the changing of Chinese policy that enabled people to move freely into other provinces, villagers seeking upward mobility have slowly began leaving their hometown in search of better opportunity since the time of Deng Xiaoping. All who were left in the village were middle-aged or elderly, surviving solely on seasonal tourism. There were no young people there to continue to populate the area.
It then dawned on me that in a few decades, the area would no longer exist beyond the buildings that occupied the space. A profound sense of gratitude filled me and made me want to appreciate every moment I had there. In a very real way, the Sun was setting on this remote community, and I would be among the last to see them before they’re forgotten.
I count myself as blessed to have experienced this remarkable place. I hope to find more like it in the future.
-Max
Side note: many of the homes in this village were made of clay.
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